Adjustable garment



Aug. 21, 1962 A. R. JOHNSON ADJUSTABLE GARMENT 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 6, 1958 Aug. 21, 1962 A. R. JOHNSON ADJUSTABLE GARMENT 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed 001:. 6, 1958 INVENTOR IEMIG'ENEIQIJ OHNSON Aug. 21, 1962 A. R. JOHNSON ADJUSTABLE GARMENT I5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Oct. 6, 1958 United filt ates :ifidjil Patented Aug. 21, E962 .fhne

3,049,718 ADJUSTABLE GARMENT Armigene R. Johnson, 1880 Old Mill Road, Wantagh, N.Y. Filed Oct. 6, 1958, Ser. No. 765,557 3 Claims. (Cl. 2-76) This invention relates to garments and more specifically to garments that are readily adjustable to fit wearer difi'ering in stature and figure proportions.

In the manufacture of garments and particularly garments such as jackets, dresses, coats and the like for men and women and children, the garments must be graded in a great variety of sizes to meet the diverse physical requirements of the prospective wearers. Such grading adds considerable expense to the garments and highly skilled personnel are required for this purpose. This invention atfords a novel and improved structure for garments that greatly minimizes grading problems and enables the fabrication of a single garment which is readily adjustable to meet the requirements of wearers having widely difiering statures and proportions. Through an improved arrangement and organization of elements, both the waist size and its vertical position may be quickly and easily modified.

This feature, while highly important in garment manu- 2 facture of uniforms for both men and women, as uniforms can be purchased in relatively few size ranges and they need not be tailored for each individual. This simplifies control procedures for laundering and cleaning the garments, reduces the number that must be maintained in stock and avoids the need for marking specific garments for specific individuals.

A further object resides in the provision of a novel and improved garment having a half belt or short back-belt together with means to fasten the ends of the belt interchangeably at various complementary pairs of points on the main garment.

A further object is to provide a garment of the above characteristics in which the main garment is formed with a pair of laterally collapsible and expansible vertical pleats disposed inwardly adjacent the two complementary sets of fastening points, and which includes a central web permanently connecting the belt to the main garment between the pleats, the web being collapsible in concealment and acting as a flattening reinforcement underneath the belt when the latter is fastened in any selected position.

A further object is to provide a garment of the above nature in which the adjustable fastening means employs a plurality of laterally spaced vertical rows of button holes disposed outwardly on each side of the back center-line of the main garment, and a pair of buttons adapted to be removably secured in any complementary pair of the button holes, the back-belt being provided with terminal holes adapted to engage the buttons.

Another object is to provide a garment of the above description which is stylish and attractive in appearance.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become evident during the course of the following description in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is an oblique rear view of a preferred form of the adjustable garment in place on the wearer;

FIGURE 2 is a partial rear view showing in detail the relative locations of the belt, web, and the complementary groups of button holes, the buttons having been removed and the garment spread out for clarity in illustration;

FIGURE 3 is a partial view of the garment with portions cut away to illustrate the partially collapsed pleats;

FIGURE 4 illustrates the position of the connecting web as the back-belt is partially unbuttoned;

FIGURE 5 is a view similar to FIGURE 3 but show- CAD 5d ing the garment adjusted to a figure having a larger waistline;

FIGURE 6 is an enlarged horizontal sectional view in the plane 6-6, FIGURE 3;

FIGURE 7 is a similar View referred to the plane 7-7, FIGURE 5;

FIGURE 8 is a fragmental sectional view in the plane 8-8, FIGURE 5, illustrating the belt secured by one of the removable buttons;

FIGURE 9 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the invention;

FIGURES l0 and 11 are fragmentary views of the embodiment shown in FIGURE 9; and

FIGURE 12 is a cross sectional view taken along the line 12-12 of FIGURE 10.

Referring to FIGURE 1, the numeral 10 designates a garment, for illustration a full-length one-piece dress of the type generally called a coat-dress, in place on a wearer 11. It will be seen that the dress is provided with a short back-belt 12 secured at the waist-line 13 by two buttons 14 and 15, and that two inwardly folded pleats 16 and 17 run from the bottom of the skirt upward under the belt 12 and a substantial distance up the bodice portion of the garment. The manner in which the belt 12 is attached so as to adjust the garment to the users figure is as follows, turning first to FIGURE 2;

Spaced symmetrically outward from the rear center-line 18 of the main garment 10 are a left group 19 and a right group 26 of narrow button holes, the button holes of each group in the present illustration being arranged in two laterally spaced vertical rows of three holes each. The back-belt 12, shown in its loosened position, is permanently connected to the main garment 10 by means of a short, wide web 21 of fabric sewed at its outer edge 22 to the inner center-line of the belt and at its inner edge 23 to the garment 10 in line with middle holes 24 and 25 of the groups 19 and 20, respectively.

To adjust the garment to particular figure the buttons 14 and 15 are installed in a pair of complementary holes of the groups 19' and 20, the pair of holes chosen being determined by the proportions of the figure to be fitted. For example, if the wearer is of medium height and small waist, the buttons may be secured in the outer middle pair of holes 24- and 25, after which the belt 12 is buttoned in place as shown in FIGURE 4, suitable button holes 26 for this purpose being provided near the ends of the belt. Since the belt as illustrated is of the short back-belt variety, the result of the above assembly operation is to nip in the waist-line of the garment, as illustrated in FIGURES 3 and 6. The pleats 16 and 17 are held in proper form at all times by short pleat-setting stitchings 3t? and 31 applied to narrow crimps or 180 degree folds of the material at the waistline 13. Since these setting stitchings are confined to the waistline, they allow the pleats freedom to taper or flare in a graceful manner both above and below the waist, while at the same time defining a middle back panel 27. By reference to FIGURE 6 it will be seen that as the belt contracts the waist-line the pleats 16 and 17 collapse inwardly and laterally toward each other, while the web 21 likewise collapses or folds up between the belt and the middle back panel 27 of the main garment it When the garment is in place on a wearer, the cross-folded web serves as a lateral stiffener or reinforcement to maintain unwrinkled flatness of the panel 27, as well as serving to urge the folding fabric of the pleats laterally outward to proper positions behind the buttons as the garment is donned. A further advantage of the permanently connected web 21 i that it prevents possible loss of the belt at any time, for instance during cleaning, and also retains 3 the belt in convenient position for effecting adjustments as described.

Similarly, if the wearers natural waist-line is of medium vertical location but of greater dimension, the buttons may be installed in the inner middle pair of holes 24a and 250, FIGURE 2.' When the belt is buttoned in place, the same result is accomplished as described above except that the garment is rendered suitable for proper fit on a wearer of more ample proportion, as illustrated in FIGURES 5 and 7. a a

To adjust the garment to higher'or. lower natural Waistlines, either set of complementary holes of the upper or the lower row respectively may be used for attachment of the belt 12 in the manner described. Thus it will be seen that with complementary groups 19' and 20 as shown, provision is made for six difierent fitting combinations of waist height and circumference. Obviously, if desired, greater numbers of rows of optional buttonhole pairs may be provided, though it has been determined that within a very substantial range of stature and figure proportion the arrangement illustrated normally provides ample adjustability to effect perfect fit in all cases. With each fitting combination, the web 21 acts to maintain the center panel 27 flat, as desired, and due to the shortness of the web, the latter i concealed underneath the backbelt in all positions of adjustment. These characteristics of the web, together with the automatic conformation to hip and other contours provided by the pleats 16 and 17, cooperate with the 'belt to endow the garment with a high degree of chic and attractive appearance, as well as comfort.

The buttons 14 and '15 are provided with any suitable readily detachable retaining means such as the small ring 28 and hairpin clip 29 shown in FIGURES 8, 7Vand 6.

From the foregoing description it will be evident that the invention provides a novel garment structure with unique qualities of ready fitting adjustability, eliminating the usual necessity for expensive and time-consuming alterations, while at the same time providing for application of a single basic size of garment to figures of various statures and proportions with equally high results as to style and comfort in each case. Beside the advantages to the wearer, it will be evident that the invention also benefits the sellers by greatly reducing the number of different sizes of garments which need to be carried in stock.

FIGURE 9 illustrates another embodiment of the invention as applied to a jacket generally denoted by the numeral 35. The back of the jacket is provided with an overlying panel structure 36 which, together with the belt 37 affords the adjustable feature obtainable with the embodiment of the invention previously described.

More specifically, the jacket body 38 has an opening 39 extending from points 40 to the bottom edge 41 of the jacket. This opening is shown by the dotted lines 42 in FIGURE and the upper ends terminate in darts 43 which provide upwardly extending pleats 44 when the jacket is in position on the wearer.

In the formation of the opening 39 material from the jacket body is removed below the line 45 and the panel portion from line 45 up to the points 40 constitutes an integral part of the jacket body 38. The lower panel portion is denoted by the numeral 46 and is sewn to the upper panel part along the line 45. The belt 37, which includes button holes 47 at the ends thereof is attached to the panel structure 36 by a short web 48 secured centrally of the belt and attached to panel 36 along the line 45. The body 38 of the jacket is further provided with four or more openings 49 adjoining each edge of the panel structure 3'6 and a pair of removable buttons 50 are attached in selected pairs of said openings. With this arrange ment the Waist of the jacket can be adjusted upwardly and downwardly and can be lengthened or shortened, as may be desired. This adjustable feature results from the utilization of the panel structure 36 and the pleats 44 as described above. In addition, the belt 37 is so arranged that the ends of the belt cover all of the openings 49 on each side of the panel structure 36 in all of the adjusted positions. While only four different adjustable positions are shown, it is apparent that additional openings 49 may be provided to aiford increased latitude in the adjustment of the garment.

The invention has been described as typically applied to coat-dresses, and jackets, but it will be obvious that it is similarly adaptable to other garments such as short or long coats, raincoats, and other types of wearing apparel. It is also to be understood that the garments illustrated and described may be arranged with shirred, darted or biased portions beneath the belt to produce the results obtained by the pleated and panel structures of the drawings. Thus, while the invention has been set forth in preferred form it is not limited to the precise embodiments illustrated, as various modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. A garment extending from the shoulders of the wearer to at least the waist including in combination a body part having a waist zone, a belt member, a set of belt fastening means including a first pair of laterally spaced belt fastening means disposed centrally of said waist zone and a second pair of laterally spaced belt fastening means disposed centrally of said waist zone with the lateral spacing of said second fastening means exceeding the spacing of the first said pair of fastening means, at least two additional sets of belt fastening means with one additional set disposed above the first said set and the other set disposed below the said first set, laterally spaced attaching means on said belt for attachment to selected pairs of attaching means on said waist zone, a tab secured along one edge to said waist zone and at a position approximately midway between said first pair of attaching means and at an opposing edge to said belt, said belt completely overlying said tab with the belt secured to any selected pair of attaching means.

2. A garment extending from the shoulders of the wearer to at least the waist including in combination a body part having a waist zone, a belt member, a set of belt fastening means including a first pair of laterally spaced belt fastening means disposed centrally of said waist zone and a second pair of laterally spaced belt fastening means disposed centrally of said waist zone with the lateral spacing of said second fasteningmeans exceeding the spacing of the first said pair of fastening means,

. two additional sets of belt fastening means with one addition-a1 set disposed above the first said set and the other set disposed below the said first set, laterally spaced and vertically centered attaching means on said belt .for at- 'tachment to selected pairs of attaching means on said 7 waist zone, said waist belt attaching means being spaced from the ends of the belt a distance greater than the lateral spacing of adjoining fastening means of each pair of said waist zone, said belt having a width at least equal to twice the vertical distance between said additional sets of fasten- 1ng means whereby said belt will overlie all of said sets of fastening means when secured to any selected pair of said fastening means on said waist zone.

3. A garment extending from the shoulders we point below the waist of the wearer comprising a body parthavmg a waist zone, a belt member, :a set of belt fastening means Including a first pair of laterally spaced belt fastenmg means disposed centrally of said waist zone and a second pair of laterally spaced belt fastening means disposed centrally of said waist zone with the lateralispacing of said second fastening means exceeding the spacing of the first said pair of fastening means, two additional sets of belt fastening means with one additional set disposed above the first said set and the other set disposed below the said first set, said body part having an overlying panel between said pairs of fastening means on said waist zone with the side edges of the panel being free and unsecured and the body part underlying said panel having relatively displaceable portions, laterally spaced, vertically centered attaching means on said belt for attachment to selected pairs of attaching means on said Waist zone, said waist belt attaching means being spaced from the ends of the belt a distance greater than the lateral spacing of adjoining fastening means of back pair on said waist zone, said belt having a width at least equal to twice the vertical distance between said additional sets of fastening means whereby said belt will overlie all of said sets of fastening means when secured to any selected pair of said fastening means on said waist zone.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Re. 22,665 Mahoney Aug. 14, 1945 6 Bischofi Sept. 22, P'adernacht July 27, Guyette Jan. 6, Van Heusen Nov. 14, Baeder Dec. 1, Merrick Dec. 8, Pelton Dec. 23, Wilker Sept. 20,

FOREIGN PATENTS Denmark May 24, 

